So, you’re diving into the wonderful world of making your own lotions and creams? That’s fantastic! It’s incredibly rewarding to create products perfectly tailored to your skin. But one of the first hurdles many DIY enthusiasts encounter is getting those oils and waters to actually mix and stay mixed. You whip them together, and they look great for a moment, but soon enough, you see that dreaded separation. That’s where the magic of emulsifiers comes in.
Creating a stable blend of oil and water – the basis of most lotions and creams – requires a special kind of ingredient. Without it, you essentially just have oily water or watery oil. If you’re keen on keeping your creations as close to nature as possible, you’ll be pleased to know there are several effective natural emulsifiers available for your homemade concoctions.
Understanding the Role of an Emulsifier
Think of oil and water like two groups of people who don’t naturally mingle. An emulsifier acts like a friendly connector, someone who has connections in both groups and can bring them together. Chemically speaking, emulsifier molecules have two ends: one part that loves water (hydrophilic) and another part that loves oil (lipophilic). This unique structure allows them to position themselves at the interface between oil droplets and water, reducing the surface tension that keeps them apart. This creates a stable mixture called an emulsion.
Without an emulsifier, you might achieve a temporary mix by shaking vigorously (like a vinaigrette dressing), but it won’t last. A good emulsifier helps create tiny, stable droplets of one liquid dispersed within the other, resulting in the smooth, uniform texture we expect from lotions and creams.
Why Choose Natural Emulsifiers?
The push towards natural ingredients in skincare isn’t just a trend; for many, it’s a conscious choice. People opt for natural emulsifiers for various reasons:
- Skin Sensitivity: Some individuals find synthetic emulsifiers irritating. Natural options, often derived from plant sources like olives, coconuts, or sunflowers, can be gentler on sensitive skin.
- Ingredient Philosophy: Many DIYers simply prefer using ingredients that are closer to their natural state, minimizing chemical processing.
- Environmental Considerations: While not always the case, some natural emulsifiers may have a more sustainable production process compared to certain synthetic counterparts.
- Added Benefits: Some natural emulsifiers, like lecithin or those derived from olive oil, can offer additional skin-conditioning properties.
It’s about having more control over what goes onto your skin and aligning your DIY projects with your personal values regarding ingredients.
Exploring Popular Natural Emulsifiers
The term ‘natural’ can be a bit flexible in cosmetics, often meaning ‘derived from natural sources’. Here are some commonly used emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers favoured in natural DIY skincare:
Beeswax
Good old beeswax! Harvested from honeycombs, it’s one of the oldest cosmetic ingredients. While often included in DIY recipes, beeswax isn’t a true emulsifier in the technical sense. It primarily acts as a thickener and stabiliser, particularly in oil-heavy balms or very simple, rustic creams (often called ‘cold creams’ in old recipes). It can help hold a small amount of water within an oil base, but it doesn’t create the sophisticated, stable emulsions of modern lotions. It adds occlusive properties (helping to lock in moisture) but can feel heavy or waxy on the skin in higher concentrations. It’s best used in combination with other emulsifiers or primarily for balms and salves.
Lecithin
Lecithin is a fatty substance found in plant and animal tissues. For cosmetics, it’s typically derived from soybeans or sunflowers (sunflower lecithin is preferred by those avoiding soy allergens). Lecithin is a natural emulsifier and also offers skin conditioning benefits, acting as an emollient. However, it can be tricky to work with. It tends to create heavier, sometimes sticky textures and the emulsions might not be as stable or aesthetically pleasing as those made with other emulsifiers. It often works best as a co-emulsifier or in specific types of formulations.
Fatty Alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Alcohol
Don’t let the word ‘alcohol’ scare you! These are not the drying types of alcohol like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol (a mixture of Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohol) are fatty alcohols, typically derived from vegetable sources like coconut or palm oil. They are waxy solids that function primarily as thickeners, stabilisers, and co-emulsifiers. They improve the texture of lotions and creams, making them feel richer and more substantial without being overly greasy. They help stabilise the emulsion created by the primary emulsifier and contribute to a nice ‘slip’ on the skin. They are rarely used alone to emulsify but are key supporting players.
Glyceryl Stearate & Glyceryl Stearate SE
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin (plant-derived) with stearic acid (a fatty acid from vegetable or animal sources – check your supplier for vegetable source). It acts as a co-emulsifier and thickener, often used alongside a stronger primary emulsifier. Glyceryl Stearate SE (Self-Emulsifying) has an added ingredient (like potassium stearate) that allows it to function as a sole emulsifier, particularly for oil-in-water emulsions. It’s derived from natural sources and creates stable, pleasant-feeling lotions and creams. It’s a reliable choice for many DIY projects.
Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate)
This is a very popular emulsifier in the natural skincare world. Derived entirely from olive oil, Olivem 1000 creates elegant, non-greasy emulsions with a silky skin feel. It forms liquid crystal structures that can help with long-term hydration. It’s relatively easy to use and works well for both lotions and creams. It’s often considered a go-to for those wanting effective, plant-derived emulsification with excellent results.
Emulsifying Wax NF
Emulsifying Wax NF (National Formulary) is a standard blend designed for ease of use and reliable results. It typically contains Cetearyl Alcohol combined with a synthetic emulsifier like Polysorbate 60. While the Cetearyl Alcohol component is plant-derived, the Polysorbate 60 undergoes significant chemical processing. Therefore, while extremely effective and widely used even in ‘natural-style’ DIY products for its robustness, it’s not considered strictly natural by purists. It creates very stable, predictable emulsions, making it a good starting point for beginners, but be aware of its composition if aiming for 100% naturally derived ingredients.
Verified Information: Natural emulsifiers function by having both water-loving (hydrophilic) and oil-loving (lipophilic) parts in their molecular structure. This dual affinity allows them to reduce the surface tension between water and oil phases. This enables the creation of stable mixtures known as emulsions, essential for lotions and creams.
Getting Started: Using Natural Emulsifiers
While specific instructions vary depending on the emulsifier chosen, the general process for creating an emulsion (like a lotion or cream) usually follows these steps:
- Phase Preparation: You’ll typically have an oil phase and a water phase. The oil phase contains your chosen oils, butters, and the oil-soluble emulsifier(s) and co-emulsifiers (like fatty alcohols). The water phase contains distilled water, hydrosols, glycerin, and any water-soluble ingredients.
- Heating: Heat both phases separately in heatproof containers (like Pyrex beakers) using a double boiler or bain-marie method. The goal is to melt the solid ingredients in the oil phase (like waxes and fatty alcohols) and bring both phases to roughly the same temperature, usually around 70-75°C (160-170°F). Consistent temperature is key for a stable emulsion.
- Combining: Once both phases reach the target temperature, slowly pour the water phase into the oil phase (or sometimes vice-versa, check your specific emulsifier instructions) while mixing continuously.
- Mixing/Emulsifying: This is the crucial step. Using an immersion blender (stick blender) is highly recommended for creating fine, stable emulsions. Mix for several minutes. The mixture will likely thicken and turn opaque white as the emulsion forms. Short bursts of blending interspersed with hand stirring are often effective.
- Cooling: Continue stirring gently as the mixture cools. Add any heat-sensitive ingredients (like preservatives, essential oils, certain vitamins) during the cool-down phase, typically below 40°C (104°F).
- Storing: Transfer the finished lotion or cream to a clean, sanitized container.
Usage Rates: Emulsifiers are typically used at rates between 3% and 8% of the total formula weight, depending on the specific emulsifier and the desired thickness. Co-emulsifiers like Cetyl Alcohol are often used at 1-3%. Always refer to the supplier’s guidelines for specific usage rates.
Stability Boosters: Sometimes, achieving the perfect texture and long-term stability requires a little extra help. Natural gums like Xanthan Gum or Guar Gum can be added (usually to the water phase before heating) at very low percentages (0.2-0.5%) to thicken the water phase and improve stability.
Choosing Your Natural Emulsifier
Which one is right for you? Consider:
- Desired Texture: Want a light lotion? Olivem 1000 might be great. Need a thicker cream? Glyceryl Stearate SE or combining emulsifiers with fatty alcohols could work well. Beeswax contributes more to thickness and occlusion than primary emulsification.
- Ease of Use: Some emulsifiers are more forgiving than others. Emulsifying Wax NF (despite composition caveats) and Olivem 1000 are generally considered user-friendly. Lecithin can be more challenging.
- Ingredient Compatibility: Some emulsifiers work better with certain types of oils or active ingredients. Research specific compatibility if using unusual ingredients.
- Your ‘Natural’ Definition: Decide how strictly you define ‘natural’. Are plant-derived fatty alcohols okay? Is Olivem 1000 (derived but processed) acceptable? Or are you aiming for something basic like beeswax or lecithin?
Start simple! Choose one well-regarded emulsifier like Olivem 1000 or Glyceryl Stearate SE and follow a trusted recipe to get a feel for the process.
A Crucial Note on Preservation
This is non-negotiable. Any product you make that contains water (lotions, creams, sprays) absolutely requires a broad-spectrum preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, mould, and yeast. Natural ingredients are just as susceptible to microbial contamination as synthetic ones – often more so! This is a safety issue, not just about product spoilage.
Important Safety Warning: Failure to use an effective broad-spectrum preservative in water-containing DIY products like lotions and creams can lead to harmful microbial contamination. Natural antioxidants like Vitamin E or Grapefruit Seed Extract are NOT sufficient preservatives on their own. Always use a cosmetic-grade preservative suitable for your formula type and follow its usage guidelines carefully.
Embrace the Experimentation
Working with natural emulsifiers opens up a realm of possibilities for creating personalized skincare. It might take a few tries to get the texture and stability just right, but the learning process is part of the fun. Research your chosen ingredients, follow safety guidelines (especially regarding preservation), take good notes, and enjoy crafting beautiful, effective lotions and creams with ingredients you trust. Happy making!
